Day 54 16/10/22 On the way to Bosnia

**this is one of the posts of the days towards Bosnia I have not updated yet- so we are travelling in the past here**

I woke up early in my tent close to Sestanovac. For breakfast I had Croatian bread, seeds, cottage cheese, local olive oil and a banana. After reloading my bike, I was riding on a quiet road, through the mountains in direction Imosky. I was anticipating to reach Bosnia and Herzegovina today. I had spent a substantial amount of time in Croatia and knowing that I might return,to visit Dubrovnik, made the farewell easier.

After climbing an ascent on a main road, komoot was leading me down on a side street. First I had second thoughts, as I saw that I would need to take the main road shortly after again. Nevertheless, I thought, it might be a nice idea to avoid some cars for the descent. So I trusted Komoot, however when I reached the bottom, where the side street was meant to join the main road, there was no road, no path, no single track. – just a slope, rocks and I still was a few metres above the Main Street. I was frustrated that komoot brought me, yet about another pleasant descent and that I once again did not trust my gut feeling. I walked up and down the edge of the slope, trying to find a suitable way, but my efforts were in vain, there was no other possibility, than just going forward. I took the bike bags of, first carried the back bags, then the front ones, carefully down the rocky slope. Then I put the bike on my shoulder, now it was important to watch every step and to keep my balance. The last step though, was the most difficult one – there was one last step – that I had jumped with the bags, however with the bike impossible. I jumped down to the road and dragged the bike closer to me, when it was close to me, I tilted it towards me until I could catch it and lift it down. I was frustrated that, what could have been and easy, even pleasant ride, had turned into torture. I tried to brush these feelings off however and carried on in direction Imosky.

Thanks for nothing komoot

Here I found a nice and quiet side street, while komoot wanted to guide me on the main road. When I reached a bakery I decided to have lunch. Bread, cottage cheese and sauerkraut. Little did I know how close I was to the Bosnian border. After a couple of kilometres I reached the border. I was thrilled to be in Bosnia and Herzegovina and got welcomed by a friendly border patrol officer giving me my first stamp of the journey. Bosnia and Herzegovina – country number eight.

Before cycling to Bosnia I got warned about inconsiderate drivers, however my experiences were different. Drivers felt more considerate and less aggressive. They were even waiting to overtake, when there was oncoming traffic. When I saw a group of people starring curious and in disbelief at me, I greeted them, all of them greeted me back. All of these small things conveyed a warm and friendly feeling. Then suddenly a big dog without leash stood in front of me, he barked and I got scared, as from now on going south, I know I need to be alarmed about dogs. When the dog stopped barking and I was cycling towards him – I just was like – goooood boy- good boy, in the hope that helps. I passed the dog without it attacking me, around the corner, the owners were smiling, as they probably wondered who is talking like this to their dog.

I wanted to get close to Mostar today, but stay far enough away, so I could wild camp without problems. I bought myself some flips and a beer at a petrol station. When I continued cycling, the guy from the petrol station appeared next to me and beeped. It turnt out my bank card fell out of my wallet, while packing it away and he drove after me to return it. What a guardian angel! Thank you universe!

After refilling my water bottles I scoped out possible campsites. The instructions for Bosnia are don’t camp in the forest and not on grass that has not been mended for a while.

When I found a flat piece of gras close to a dry riverbed, I decided to stay there, even though it was in sight of houses and a man actually saw me standing at my camp spot. Usually I would avoid that at all costs, but I was so tired, that I thought it will be fine. I drank my beer and was overcome by exhaustion, as I have barely slept in the last three days.

So long – dovidenja from Siroki Brijeg!

8 responses to “Day 54 16/10/22 On the way to Bosnia”

  1. Karen Johanna Meyer Avatar
    Karen Johanna Meyer

    Aaah I thought some days been missing😍❤️🙏🏼❤️😍 Thanks for the records and pics

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I’m sick in Albania, so I guess this is the time to do it 🤮🤢😅


      1. Karen Johanna Meyer Avatar
        Karen Johanna Meyer

        Oh no😱 not too bad hopefully! I actually thought of this, for some reason. That you must have a strong immune system since you hadn’t been reporting that your physicality provided you any trouble. Maybe it was because I myself am home from work these days with a cold. I caught it while I had Ian here with me and we were about to cycle to our mutual friend Oliver some 60 km south of Copenhagen. Although I already had a sore throat in the morning I decided to go of to work – 20 km from home in the direction of Oliver’s and then Ian would come and take our tandem on the train and pick me up after work so we could cycle from there. All that went fine – cycling the tandem is soooo fast going. Especially as the route is without any sorts of altitudevariation(nearly flat as a pancake) going along the coast most of the time. Autumn is in full bloom – as I also can see it is where i you’re about. So beautiful. Anyway my cold exploded as soon as we arrived at our friends house. Oliver is over 80 and originally from the States. All his life he’s dedicated to renaissance music, playing several of the old instruments – he has a renaissance organ and lots of viola da gamba’s – also one of the instruments I play. Ian and him know each other as teachers on renaissance music courses (where I met both back in ‘96 and got befriended with Oliver and fascinated by this other younger British music teacher with whom I got together last year – 25 years after) Oliver has been living on his own ever since he immigrated to Denmark back in the 60ties. Accompanied by a cockatoo though, named Orlando that unfortunately was grabbed by a kind of rat or ferret in the house and had a tragic ending a few years ago. Oliver also has a strong faith and a spiritual life – he’s a member of the Christian Science community (not anything like Scientology). Well I don’t know why I go into so much details here. Anyway I got ill and still am not totally fresh. Nothing to mention about really.
        But where are you staying being ill and all? Is someone tending to you a bit? I hope you get by well in Albania. I don’t know why I got this feeling of “unheimisch-ness” and I truly hope that you’ll prove it wrong. I hope also of course that you’ll be well very soon. ❤️

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Thanks for the detail! I love to hear these stories! I also know a few people who play viola da gamba. I love music! Hopefully I can see some traditional music on my journey! The latest in turkey! I was lucky to have planned a rest day in Shkodër. My border crossing was unheimlich, but I think when I will get to know Albania more I will love it. It is definitely more wild than other European countries, so I need to remember to be cautious. I guess it must have been something I’ve eaten, as several people told me it’s fine to drink the water here. I’m excited to discover Albania, but uncertain about the route. I feel restless spending another night here. But was so lucky finding some warmshower hosts in Shkodër. I also wrote a post about my day being sick. Maybe you haven’t seen it yet. Luckily today I was able to keep food it and will venture out soon to see if I can find some Gatorade! Sorry to hear about your illness too! Hope you’re having a speedy recovery!
        That poor cockatoo!
        Thanks greetings from Shkodër! ❤️


  2. Hi Madeline.
    As you have problems with Komoot I would advise you and their app which I prefer the most.
    Take care.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks I downloaded it now, let’s see


  3. Just happened to read this journal entry. Have you considered using other routing apps in addition to Kamoot? There’s Ride with GPS, Google Maps for bikes, Strava etc. They all have their plusses and minuses, but lots of times one works better than the others, so using a few for routing has worked, at least for me. Wishing you continued pleasant adventures and a safe journey, Madeline.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi thank you Mark. I used yesterday and it also led me astray. When I used ride with gps, I had the most terrifying experience in the velebit mountains in Croatia, where I “hiked”. More pulled and dragged my bike up a mountain, when it said short section of ride a bike. Greetings from Istanbul. Thank you for following my journey


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