Day 103, 05/12/2022 Wet dog days

I woke up on a heated blanket in a room in Araovacik. Due to drinking too much cay the night before, while chatting to locals, with the help of google translate, my night had been cut short. After waking up slowly, I went over to the tea house. Here the owner’s son greeted me with a cup of cay. I prepared my breakfast under the eyes of the locals. Afterwards it was time to load the bike, show my gratitude to my dear host and start cycling. A long day in the mountains was lying ahead of me. My bike and my rain gear had been completely saturated in mud, the day before. Unfortunately once again the clouds were hanging low and the minute I started cycling there was light but continuous rainfall. Nevertheless I felt optimistic and energetic. My legs felt much stronger, than the day before, as well as my mind. Maybe it was the thought of reaching the coast until sunset. But before I had to climb a mountain. The first kilometres led me through green rolling hills, covered in pine forest and small raw villages. I tried to imagine the life, that people lead in those villages, they conveyed the feeling of travelling back in time. I remembered dreaming of a hot shower last night – would these houses have a hot shower?

This route was truely remarkable, it led me through the remote pristine countryside, far from traffic. Just in time for ascending up the mountain it started to downpour. I was pushing the pedals, counting up all the mountains I had cycled on this journey. The ascend was not as steep, as I had assumed, which I was grateful for. The road led through a seemingly untouched pine forest. Higher and higher was I ascending with my loaded bike, rain pouring on my face. ‘You’re doing good Madeline, keep on pushing’. The surface of the road was rough and not easy to ride. Soon thick fog immersed mountains and trees into an eerie atmosphere.

Due to the rain I did not have my phone, and with it my navy, mounted on the handlebar, but in one of my bags. When I was curious, how much longer the ascend was, I noticed with excitement, that there was only about 500metres climbing left.

Shortly after, I was descending through green hills covered in pine trees, until I came to an opening, overlooking green mountains and olive orchards. And there – was this the sea at the horizon? Light hearted was I descending further and further, surrounded by olive orchards. I was watching locals harvesting olives. When I arrived in a town called Havran, I scoffed down some bread, to have enough energy to make it to the coast.

Looking at the horizon, the sky was glowing where the coast was located, as if a treasure was waiting for me at the coast. While cycling towards the coast, people were looking at me in disbelief – my bike and me were saturated in mud – I guess it was not raining at the coast, I thought.

When finally reaching the coast, I was looking for a room, as I felt like a ‘wet dog’ – wet and cold. My soul was longing for a hot shower, additionally I was worried about getting sick. To my surprise the guesthouses were so pricey, that I decided to wild camp instead. The shower had to wait. Instead I eyed out a grassy spot on the beach, here I wanted to set up my tent in darkness. First however I cooked dinner on the steps of a deserted hotel. These are the moments, when bike packing can convey the feeling of homelessness, the feeling of living on the road, cooking on the side of the street. While preparing dinner, I suddenly realised, my phone was missing. It was past sunset and almost dark, in panic I started running back to the beach, investigating all the places I had been, praying to the universe – and there it was, lying on the ground – thank you universe!

At ease I returned to cooking and eating dinner. Until after darkness I set up my tent at the beach and soon after was overcome by exhaustion.

So long – farewell from Bahçelievler!

6 responses to “Day 103, 05/12/2022 Wet dog days”

  1. This is a day you really did well Madeline. It sounds like it could have gone either way, been a shit show or amazing, but you chose amazing. Even though the previous days may have worn you down, you kept your chin up. You owned your end state, instead of letting things get to you – just from your writing, that seems quite a change from where you were before. It’s a powerful trait to nourish when you are doing something hard and adventurous. Its resilience/toughness building and giving you the ability to see the nuggets of beauty, the ability to change your emotional state internally, not just by external happenings. It will serve you well in life going forward no matter the circumstance. You sound more in control of your destiny now, rather than just letting the universe decide everything.

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Thanks Brent. However there was no control there. It was still the plan of the universe.


  2. Getting through the tough times makes you strong and appreciate the good times. I still envy you.

    Chuck Ayres

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Hi Madeline,

    I am the Dutch cyclist who donated on your birthday. You thanked and suggested to leave a message on your blog. It took me a while, sorry, but here it is. I said that I am a cyclist, that is of course only my hobby, but I may say a life-long hobby by now, my first holiday on a bicycle is already 50 years ago (!), the original reasons were that it was a means to go on holiday without parents and it was an affordable way to travel; once done, it became clear that it fulfilled the implicit urge for adventure, movement and exploration. I am now 66 and still cycling on holiday, even three times this year, but none as long as yours (2 weeks trekking in Sweden in a party of 3, 1 week in a house in France near Mont Ventoux with 8 cyclists and 3 weeks cycling alone from home – Maastricht – to Porto via England and ferry to Spain). But this is why I love reading your blog, I first saw your FB post in Bicycle Travellers of Solitary Cycling and followed the link to your blog. Gradually I became a regular reader. You write very well, it contains much of what I recognise from my own experience, the exploration, the adventure, the recurring difficulties such as punctures, but also decisions you have to make, feeling exhausted at times but also feeling good through exercise. Without any doubt I admire your courage to make this journey by bicycle and to do this on your own. I used to cycle with tent and cooking gear, just like you, but over the years I left out the tent and cooking gear somewhere and that’s why B&B (or equivalent) and restaurant became daily items. Effects of age I guess.
    The theme of finding your father isn’t something I have experience with, but it’s intriguing, there’s definitely a bit of building up of suspense inherent in this as you get closer to him. And since Turkey is one of the countries I’ve never been to, I’m also curious what it’s like there and how the cycling journey is like there. As said before, your writing is attractive, even though I am of different age and gender, there is much in your thought process that I like and recognise.

    So I keep reading you Madeline, Take Care and Good Luck! . . . . . . Wim

    Liked by 2 people

    1. Hi Wim, thank you so much for your message and your support!
      It is funny, how once tried bike travelling it soon becomes the favourite way of travelling! Same for me!
      It is great to hear, that you are still cycling, keep it up. Thanks for sharing your experience with bike touring. This is my first tour, but certainly not my last one.
      It must be very nice to be able to travel without tent and cooking gear, maybe one day I will experience that too! I am looking forward to doing a lighter tour once. Greetings from Türkiye!


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